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BLOG OF A TOUR GUIDE IN ROME

THE FOUNTAIN OF THE WITCHES OF SAINT JOHN IN LATERAN

19/01/2025 11:00

Gianluca Pica

Baroque, Legends, Rome, Fountain, #roma, #rome, #romeisus, #fontana, #unaguidaturisticaroma, #atourguiderome, #fountain,

THE FOUNTAIN OF THE WITCHES OF SAINT JOHN IN LATERAN

A simple seventeenth-century fountain in Rome is the harbinger of stories linked to witches and purification rituals...

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Leaning against the tallest obelisk in Rome, in front of the Loggia delle Benedizioni of the Basilica of St. John Lateran, this historical fountain deserves a brief mention. It is already interesting to note how in the Eternal City it is very easy to find architectural elements from different periods and epochs that make up a single, large monument (as in the case of another obelisk). Foe example, not only the monumental work realized by the ancient Egyptians is interesting, because even this fountain has a lot to say. During a tour, I always stop here, because this element can also provide very specific stories and traditions. 


Built at the beginning of the XVII century, perhaps based on a design by Domenico Fontana (who oversaw the projects of the buildings surrounding Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano) or Flaminio Ponzio (architect trusted by the Borghese), the fountain is raised by three steps compared to the floor level, and consists of a large basin flanked by two dragons which, together with the overlying eagle, form the coat of arms of the Borghese. The fountain is also framed by two blocks of travertine and two large volutes on the sides. From inscriptions of the time, we know that the fountain also had a statue depicting St. John the Evangelist and some lilies, elements that were destroyed by a lightning strike that, in the 19th century, particularly hit the sculpture, decapitating it. The fountain is also linked to a historical tradition, now fallen into disuse, which reached its peak on June 24, the feast of St. John. On the night of the 23rd, it was believed that Rome was invaded by witches, wandering the city in search of souls. The people gathered especially at St. John's to pray for him to drive away the evil creatures. With trumpets, small trumpets, and drums, the population also made a great noise to try to scare away the witches, preventing them from collecting herbs they would use for spells. It was also a tradition that it was often better to wash your hands with the water from this fountain to be protected from the evil of the witches. 


So here is why a simple fountain like this, with four hundred years behind it, carries an enormous load of popular tradition, almost folkloric. It almost makes you smile to think about its extreme proximity to a sacred and Christian symbol par excellence: the nearby, monumental Baptistery (here you can learn more). Here water is used for very different purposes, certainly, but after all, it remains a fact that, as in the case of the fountain, this precious liquid always carries a sense of well-being. How many things can a simple fountain in Rome tell, which today is completely overshadowed by a grand obelisk. But even small things matter...

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