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Gianluca Pica
 


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BLOG OF A TOUR GUIDE IN ROME

THE PRIVATE BATH, WITH "GROTTESCHE", OF A POPE AT CASTEL SANT'ANGELO

15/03/2025 11:00

Gianluca Pica

Art, Renaissance, Fresco, St Angel Castle, #roma, #rome, #romeisus, #rinascimento, #unaguidaturisticaroma, #atourguiderome, #renaissance, #castello,

THE PRIVATE BATH, WITH "GROTTESCHE", OF A POPE AT CASTEL SANT'ANGELO

Clement VII's little stove at Castel Sant'Angelo is a combination of art and comfort...

stufetta-clemente-vii--2--castel-santangelo.jpeg

Following my blog, you know how much I love Castel Sant'Angelo, considering it a symbol not only of Rome but also of the transformations that make the Eternal City so unique (as you can read here, for example). Thanks to its historical character, Castel Sant'Angelo is well-suited to offer visitors varied testimonies, artworks from different eras, or very interesting views. One of them can be seen here in this photo: the so-called Stufetta of Clement VII. Today, with your tour guide in Rome, it's time to dive into the Renaissance.


This small rectangular space, originally wanted by Pope Julius II in the early 16th century, was nothing but the private bathroom used by the pope in the fortress of Castel Sant'Angelo. After all, the building was not just a castle in and of itself, a place to take refuge in case of need, as it had to accommodate the sacred person of the pope in person. It was later Pope Clement VII Medici who directly commissioned Giovanni da Udine, one of the pupils and collaborators of Raphael, to decorate this Stufetta. Entering here is truly exciting because, understanding the intended use of the small space (an actual bath with a tub), one cannot help but be dazzled by the colors and decorations on the walls. Endless grotesques, a white background framed by stuccoes, natural elements, painted shells, and scenes mainly depicting Venus and Cupid. A summary of the Renaissance taste of that time, a mix of classical mythology, delicate and elegant beauty. It's interesting to note the historical bridge that can be seen here, between the Roman and the Renaissance world. As described, some of the episodes painted here draw heavily from ancient mythology. If the Renaissance truly means a rebirth, also supported by a greater and renewed interest in the Greco-Roman world in general, then the Stufetta of Clement VII is an excellent example to understand the meaning of this concept. But not only that, as it was a real bath, there was an underground heating system installed here, reminiscent of the one used in ancient Roman baths. Again, a sort of historical, archaeological, and architectural bridge between the contemporary world of the pope and the ancient world, which lost appeal and interest during the Medieval period. The concept of grotesque itself best represented the quintessential Renaissance painting style, also found in other rooms of Castel Sant'Angelo. After all, as you can read here, the grotesque was related to the ancient world.


Lastly, it is interesting to note how the Stufetta (with this name indicating the private little bathroom at the time) was located inside a castle. The reason? Simply because being a fortress, this building could host the pope and his court in emergencies, even for weeks or months. Historically, this happened, as for multiple reasons the pope himself had to stay here, and not in his own apartments. Everything had to be done to make the environment comfortable and livable. It's fantastic to understand the origin of such beauty and easy to comprehend how, in the midst of normal human ablutions, one can be fascinated by these colors and this way of making art.

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